Shapescaper Garden Edging Galvabond 150mm x 2400mm x 2mm

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* Shapescsaper Fastning Guide

DIY Videos

Installation Guide

Prepare the site
– Establish a datum or reference point for levels and contours
– Measure and mark out the area, step back to visualize the full context of your design
– Layout your edging and stakes along the run to find the best location for joins and any required cuts
– We recommend the use of a sealing compound such as Crommelin Blackseal Heavy Duty bitumen paint on any edging below ground level
– Check for underground services or obstructions like roots
– Prepare a trench to a minimum depth of 40mm

Cutting and shaping the edging
– Mark planned cuts and double-check measurements
– Cuts are easily made using an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting disc
– 150mm edging can be formed into gentle curves with a radius down to 500mm onsite. Hand shape using your body weight to gently and gradually bend the edging. Hold the end of the edging up with one hand while running your other hand along the edging with downward pressure to form the curve. Work in small increments, slowly adding to the shape of the curve. If you curve a piece of edging too far simply apply pressure in a similar way from the other side to reduce the radius of the curve.
– Tighter curves should be custom ordered and can be rolled down to a radius of 250m

Hand shaping 90-degree corners and other angles
– Do not score the edging with an angle grinder when forming tight bends; this is unnecessary and weakens the corner.
– Can be easily hand bent onsite
– Achieve neat corners by marking the position at least 300mm from the end of a length. This will allow enough leverage to easily start bending the edging.
– Place a stake across the edging at the marked position and place your feet as close to the sides of the edging as possible to secure the stake.
– Avoid straining your back by using your knees and legs muscles to bend the edging slightly over 90 degrees, then adjust to the desired angle.
– Using a small piece of wood or similar under the end of the edging will make it easier to get your fingers underneath to start the bending process.
– The top part of the bend will have a neatly tucked-in curved lip.
– The lower part of the edging will have a gently rounded flare, which will be below ground level.

90-degree corners are also available as stock items
– External (lip on the inside SECE150G20)
– Internal (lip on the outside SECI150G20)

Installing and securing the edging
– Select 3 or 4 stakes per length as needed (SS400R) Ribbed Stakes
– 3 stakes are suitable most applications; 4 stakes maybe required for long straight runs, or when installed in loose or sandy soil
– Fit a connector to each edging length using two of the supplied hex head self-tapping screws, this can be done prior to putting any edging into the ground
– Use the lower holes in the edging to align with the holes on the stakes
– Use a string line to ensure the stakes are driven to the required depth and positioned perfectly along the length of the run
– Taking care to maintain the spacing use a “dead blow” hammer or rubber mallet to guide each stake down to the correct depth
– Position the edging over the top of the stakes and secure to the previous connector
– Use the lower holes on the edging to align with the lower holes on the stakes and fit the stakes using the supplied hex head self-tapping screws
– If the stakes holes don’t align with the existing edging holes simply screw into the edging using the holes in the back of the stakes as a guide

Final adjustments and finishing touches
– Backfill and compress along the front of the edging then back fill the rear section
– Wash down the face of the edging with water to clean